Back on the A39, I stopped at a spot that revealed a different side of the area: the Cornwall at War Museum. Despite north Cornwall's remoteness, it's played a key role in past wars. During World War One, the coast was heavily defended from the German U-boats thick in the water; in World War Two, the region hosted RAF bases, served as a launching point for the D-Day landings in Normandy and was the target numerous bombing raids. Even today, the area plays a role in the UK's national security thanks to GCHQ Bude, one of the UK and security organisations. On a clear day, you can see the base's large, eerie white satellite dishes, perched on the coastline, from miles away.